Fluctuations in the diamond market brought a new focus in jewelry on small diamonds and colored stones. The large quantities of blue topaz, amethyst, and citrine available made these gem materials especially popular. Cultured pearls saw a phenomenal rise. A broad mix of design trends included a return to older metal techniques such as granulation, as well as experimentation in new metals and metalworking techniques. While classical European houses were credited with some important new designs, exciting innovations emerged from elsewhere in Europe as well as in Asia and the U.S.
A variety of new cuts for colored stones became popular. The gems, usually transparent, are cut with a free-form outline and given a number of indented, grooved facets, which provide visual texture and interest. Munsteiner, raised in the famous gem-cutting center of Idar-Oberstein, has also been credited with developing the “negative cut” (a cabochon crown with a carved or faceted pavilion). Many other gem-cutting artists have followed Munsteiner’s lead and have developed their own styles and techniques.
Cabochon-cut stones were used more frequently in jewelry. New variations appeared, with names evocative of their shapes: bullets, tongues, sugarloafs, and bufftop baguettes. Cabochon-cut rubies, emeralds, and sapphires, also became very popular. A number of jewelry manufacturers worked directly with cutters to create custom-cut gems to suit a specific design.
2. Наблюдается феноменальное увеличение в ювелирной индустрии культивированного жемчуга.
3. Становятся популярными и новые типы огранки цветных камней.
4. Ювелирные камни гранятся со свободными формами.
5. Многие огранщики следуют ведущему направлению известного ограночного центра в Идар-Оберштайне и развивают свои собственные стили и технологии.
The focus in jewelry is on gold and diamonds. Thin gold chains are worn in multiples as bracelets and, in various lengths, as necklaces, often with gold charms and small gem-set pendants. Taken to the extreme, charm holders enjoy a brief but immense popularity, allowing collectors to wear 20 or more charms on a single chain. Dainty gold rings, sometimes set with small gems, are in vogue and some women wear them on every finger. As twentieth century progressed, a heavier look for gold jewelry gained momentum. Ear-rings became larger and more elaborate, replacing small gem-set studs, or supplementing them, as the trend toward multiple piercing of one or both ears allowed many women to wear studs along with large ear-rings.
Gold and silver bangle bracelets in various widths are favored items, as are wide cuff bracelets. Both types are available in simple unadorned styles, and embellish with surface textures of gems. Ring generally have a more substantial look. The diamond engagement ring, which continues to be the industry staple, adapted to contemporary trends. Matching engagement and wedding band sets incorporate more diamond melee as accent stones, reflecting the move toward bigger jewelry. However, channel settings began to follow more curvilinear designs, bending around the center stone, for example, or coiling in a graduated loop. These designs demanded precisely calibrated cut diamonds in straight and tapered baguettes as well as the new square-cut brilliants.
In twentieth century of innovation, a number of unusual materials made their appearance in jewelry. As a contrast to the rigidity of metal and gems, some jewelry designers used a thin cord of woven silk, black leather, or even black rubber tubing, with gold clasps and massive, gem-set pendants. Another chemical product, acrylic plastic, was set with a variety of faceted transparent gemstones in jewelry. Ease of travel and communication has made ethnic art more immediately accessible, and we may see new interpretations of cultural motifs and styles in jewelry.